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How to Incubate Chicken eggs - Incubation

If you use the incubator for the first time it is recommended that you operate the incubator with a small quantity of inexpensive eggs to be assured of your operating procedure and the performance of the incubator, before attempting to hatch large quantities of eggs or expensive eggs.

An incubator or brooder is designed to bring normal room temperature to the desired temperature. Room temperature of 60 degrees F. or below will reduce the temperature in the incubator. Room temperature changes of 10 degrees or more will change the temperature in the incubator. The change is more pronounced below a temperature of 70 degrees F.  

Temperature may not be set to the correct temperature from factory. Check against thermometer supplied.Allow 2 hours to stabilize the temperature before setting eggs.  Ensure that the bulb is adjusted just clear of the top of the eggs.Fine adjustments can be made the control to increase or decrease the temperature. 

The Thermometer will always be sitting on the wire floor of the incubator. In a still air incubator, the closer you get to the top of the incubator, the higher the actual temperature.
We have worked out scientifically the proper thermometer reading for different size eggs, when on their side on the floor and when they are in the automatic turner. When setting eggs of different sizes, you will have to use an average half way between temperature in the chart below.
 Recommended temperatures: Incubation period
 Hens  39.2°C 102.5°F 21 days
 Pheasant  39.5°C 103°F 24 days
 Quail  39.2°C 102.5°F 17 days
 Ducks  39°C 102°F 28 days
 Geese  39°C 102°F 28-32 days

Moisture

Moisture in an incubator prevents excessive drying out of the natural moisture in the egg. It is impossible to give any set rule for supplying moisture. If the incubator is operated in a damp cellar or in a room with considerable natural moisture, then it may not be necessary to supply artificial moisture. If operating in a dry climate or in dry room, moisture will be needed. The important thing to watch is the air space in the egg. When testing eggs for fertility, note the size of the air space. If the air space is too large, provide moisture.

Moisture in the incubator is controlled by putting water in the small inner trough of the bottom. The small trough by itself will increase the humidity to take care of most climates. If you live in an extremely dry climate you may need moisture in the larger outer trough instead of the small trough. During time of hatching, you need higher humidity that is usually provided from moisture of hatched chicks drying off. Check and fill water trough twice a week.

Important: In the winter time, three days before time to hatch, put water in both troughs of bottom to compensate for extra dryness of air.

Special Notice: Spray duck and goose eggs thoroughly with water twice each week, and spray at least three times a week during the last ten days.

Plastic Vent Plugs
The front vent plug (just below label) is used to regulate humidity and the back vent plug (by electric cord) is used when there is excessive humidity, as follows:

When incubator is over 75 percent of capacity, remove the front vent plug one week before hatch date. The day that chicks start to hatch, remove the back vent plug. If incubator is over 90 percent of capacity and contains large chicks, it may be necessary to prop one side of the incubator top up about 1/8 inch to get chicks dry. Leave side propped up just long enough for most of moisture to clear on windows, but no longer than one hour at a time.

When incubator is from 25 to 75 percent of capacity, remove the front vent plug the day chicks start to hatch.

When there is moisture condensed on the windows, remove front vent plug.
Be sure to replace vent plugs before next setting of eggs.
If vent plug should be lost, close the vent hole with scotch tape.
Chicks may be removed 24 hours after they start to hatch. Extremely wet chicks should be left in incubator to dry.

Plan to remove chicks once a day, as every time incubator is opened, warm moist air escapes. Avoid chilling of wet chicks.

Some chicks may be late in hatching, so you can leave remaining unhatched eggs up to two days longer.

Manual Egg Turning

Place eggs on their side with small end pointed slightly down. Do not overcrowd the eggs.
The eggs should be turned three times a day. Turning the eggs is best done by removing about a dozen from the center and rolling the rest of them toward the center. Place the palms of your hands on the eggs and roll them around until you are sure all have been turned, and then put the eggs taken from the center around the outer edge. Use care in turning eggs to avoid shocks or jars that may rupture the blood vessels of the germ. Do not leave eggs standing on end. Keep them flat, pushing the pointed ends down a little with the hand. With a soft lead pencil, put a small "X" on one side of egg and "O" on the other side so you can be sure of turning the eggs.
Automatic Egg Turning

Place turner on bottom of incubator with the motor side to the back of the incubator (rim of bottom with notches is the back). Slide turner as close as possible to the front rim of bottom of incubator. Be sure the turner sits flat on the wire floor.
Use a serrated kitchen knife to cut out the notch in the corner by the motor. This will permit the electric cord from the motor to exit from the incubator.
Run the electric cord through the notch and press to the bottom of the notch.
(Do not set goose eggs in turner)
Note: This Turner runs very slowly--only one revolution in 4 hours.
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